Kashmir Diaries: Final Chapter

Return To Lidderwat: Teamwork, Selflessness, Bliss

We were in a dilemma, a high altitude dilemma to be precise, as we were sitting at

Basmai Valley (11,000 ft)

and tried to decide whether we should go to a view point and see the Kolahoi Glacier from a distance, or should we take a different route towards Lidderwat and and see a couple of more lakes on the way. After our liberating experience at Basmai lake, most of us wanted to go for the route with a chance to view more alpine lakes. Our return journey was supposed to be retracing our steps back through the same route we came, so we knew what to expect on the way… or so we thought…

We packed up and said our goodbyes to the Basmai Valley. As we reached a little higher and started to climb a nearby knoll, I turned and looked back one more time. The valley stared back at me, as if saying a silent goodbye. I thanked the elements hosting us there and started towards an unnamed lake. We knew it was going to be a pretty long day. We were going to cover close to 16 kms that day, but little did we know that it was going to be so exhilarating. We were going downhill slowly, through the way we came up. The gradient which was so steep to climb up, was proving to be equally tough to go down.

Eventually, we reached a point where the stream by the side of the trail was covered in avalanche snow, which formed a natural bridge over the stream. We were all excited to cross the bridge and it was quite amazing to stand on the top and see the stream passing from one side to another.

For the next half an hour from there on, we were either climbing up or down the rock filled grassland. There were quite a few boulder sections, but by now almost everyone had learnt to find their own path. After a few hundred meters, our guide stopped on his tracks. The trail ended abruptly into a rock filled gully and which was quite steep to climb over. The only way was to climb up the mountain face next to us and crossover to the other side from the narrowest point of the gully. The climb to that point was really steep, but the crossover was quite tricky, although it appeared to be quite short a distance. There were rocks of all sizes and loose dirt. One misstep and down you go like a rag doll into the river far below, hitting an endless outcrop of rocks on the way.

We all crossed over to the other side steadily and thanked our stars, hoping that the hard part was over. Soon after trekking for another half an hour, we reached on a flat terrain, partially covered by mountains and cradling a small yet pretty lake. We parked ourselves there for a much needed rest and to savour the view. It wasn’t as pretty as Basmai lake, but it was pretty enough to make you stop and admire its beauty.

We went ahead a little from there and realised that we had a river to cross and there were no makeshift bridges to go over. It was time to get barefoot into the icy cold river and cross over to the other side. Although we couldn’t do Hampta pass, where river crossings were on the route, the opportunity to do it here was really exciting for us. I volunteered to be the first in the queue and got into the near freezing water, holding the hands of our guide and the guy next to me, forming a long human chain. The water was so cold that within a few minutes, you stop feeling cold as your legs, right down to the tip of your feet goes completely numb. We crossed the first section with some difficulty and finally we all crossed over, one step at a time. As we celebrated our victory, we discerned that the battle was only half won, as there laid in front of us, another section of the river, which was longer and as experienced later… deeper…

Four of us immediately went ahead to try and cross one of the section, it was a bit fast flowing section and one of us took a few missteps, which resulted in 3 of us getting partially drenched. Needless to say, it didn’t install much confidence in the others and our trek leaders decided to cross the river further ahead where the water was shallower. There was visible struggle as the groups were divided in two, one lead by the guide and the second led by the trek leaders. The flowing water and its frigidity didn’t pose that much challenge as the slippery rocks were posing. Even every measured step fell to their pray and people were losing their balance and their hope to cross over.

As we witnessed helplessly from the other side, unable to do much but cheer them on; a couple of locals appeared from nowhere and got into the water. What unfolded from there was a sheer illustration of “selflessness” that would be etched in my memory for life. It was an elderly local and his young school going daughter. They simply got into the water without any care for themselves and started helping each of the trekkers to slowly cross over. At one point of time, I saw the girl put her hands into the frigid water and remove an extremely slippery stone so the trekkers can cross easily, a group of absolute strangers for her. They took each person and led them by their hands to the dry shore. By the time they were done, both had drenched clothes, their shoes looked like they were made of water, but they had this wonderful smile of satisfaction on their faces that I will always remember. No one asked them to help, they were just going towards their hut, a few hundred meters from there, but they came to our rescue and became our saviours. I was so touched by their selfless gesture that I gave the old man a tight hug. Their lives are so tough in these wilderness, where “civilisation” is so far away, but I find them to be far more civilised than people I know who feign civility. It was as if they gave humanity, a new definition.

Gauhar Flanked by TL Ayushi (L) & Trekker Swapnika (R) — Gauhar (C), Our Selfless Saviour

Left: TL Ayushi, Center: Gauhar, Right: Trekker Swapnika

We soon started our journey towards the second lake, through fields of avalanche snow and ice. The usual open valleys at such heights are always mesmerising. Throw in the white ice and snow patches running parallel with the green meadows, complimented by greyish mountains, blue skies and white clouds, it was like walking through a fairytale. We walked for another half an hour and reached our destination. Green mountain faces flowing down on both sides. The silver white stream running through the valley. Just three Gujjar huts stood at a distance on the far side of the stream. Our selfless saviours bid us adieu and crossed the stream to go to one of the three huts. We sat on the grass and had our packed lunch, savouring the wonderful sight in front of us. I really wished then, that we go further ahead and set up camp, rather than going down to Lidderwat.

Our return to Lidderwat began as we backtracked through the way we came, past the snowy patches and on to the ice bridges. Our team finally came together as we traversed the open valleys and trails that we covered on the way up. We were reminiscing on the various places on the way, some place where someone slipped, or had a funny encounter and we would laugh at those instances. The journey became much lighter on our minds and souls. Some of us opened up to each other and had deep conversations.

We crossed quite a few difficult sections and streams. Everyone helped each other as a seamless unit. We were no longer two groups, glued by fate. We were one team, by choice and sheer camaraderie. We trekked, helped, laughed and enjoyed the sights together making beautiful moments. These were the moments which made us fall in love with the trek. We reached Satlanjan Campsite, from where the way to Lidderwat was almost as straight the crow flies. We gathered together and took our first group photo, pretty proud of what we achieved in these 5 days.

We would soon leave these days behind and go on our own way. Life will take over and we will yearn for the mountains, as we live through what life throws at us. These images and memories would be the reason for our center, reason for our humility, reason for our physical & mental strength, reason why we care. Because THAT, is the “Spirit Of Trekking”.