Jordan Diaries: Chapter 2

abhisek ghosh
May 28, 2021
3 min read

Updated: May 29, 2021

Jerash: A Greco-Roman Reminiscing

The country Jordan get its name from the ancient river, Jordan. A river that emerges from the

The road leading to Jerash from Amman — Enroute to Jerash

Anti-Lebanon mountain ranges, runs its course through the Sea of Galilee and exudes into the Dead Sea. Jordan, as a nation, has its roots going back to the Palaeolithic period & has been associated with the Biblical Levant region, also known as the Arab Mashreg. Resultantly, this country has seen a number of dynasties and kingdoms ruling its lands, leaving a heavy influence in the culture and architecture over long periods of time. Amongst all these dynasties, the Greeks and the Romans have left a profound impression on many of its ancient historical sites, which are still standing tall in Jordan.

A Coffee Seller — Coffee Service With A Smile

The city of Jerash happens to be one of the most visited ancient sites in Jordan. Every

year, hundreds and thousands of tourists step into Jerash to explore this fascinating

historical place. Situated just 48 kilometres north of Amman, the capital of Jordan, the

drive to Jerash is quaintly mesmerising. As you go through the hilly roads surrounded by spurts of verdant forests parting ways intermittently, to sudden open and arid valleys. The play of contrast will surely captivate you during the journey. Play some nice Arabic songs and don't forget to pick up a nice cup of hot Arabic Kahwa (Coffee infused with cardamom) on the way & you should be set for the 45 minutes journey.

Short & Sweet Journey To Jerash

The first thing that meets the eyes as you are about to reach the destination is the huge Arch of Hadrian, gateway to the old city which was built in 130 AD to honour Emperor Hadrian. The ancient Arch still stands tall, notwithstanding the harshness of

nature and time, holding glimpses of its former glory.

Some of the stone sculpting that is still found on the Arch and its peripheral structures would make one ponder about the innate skills that human being possessed even during those primitive ages. It certainly deserves huge amount of respect. Today, a world heritage site, the Hadrian Arch and the rest of the old city is under constant care by the country's archaeological division.

Close Up Images Of The Arch of Adrian

If you are really into ancient history and wish to indulge deep into the history of Jerash, you will probably end up with spending the whole day there and it still won't be enough. From the beautiful and tall pillars surrounding the oval plaza, to the two temples dedicated to Zeus and Artemis, to the colonnaded streets; Jerash is full of ancient Greco-Roman culture, still trickling down from the cauldron of time immemorial. Every summer for three weeks, the Jerash festival brings the ancient city back to life, with people dressing up in ancient costumes for the amusement of tourists. This also means awakening the two ancient theatres and the massive Hippodrome which used to hold fierce chariot races back in the days.

Images of the Hippodrome, Arched Doorways and Seating in Theatre

Other images of various Altars and Temple remains in the old city

As I looked through the worn down and yet gorgeous walls and arches of the old city, I could see the modern city of Jerash, just across the road. The modern city today has a population of about 75-80000 residents. Although the city depends mostly on the thousands of tourists visiting its ancient predecessor, Jerash still is the home to highly educated and skilled workforce in Jordan.

Amidst these all-imposing ancient presence complete with a museum to explore in details, upholding the times gone by; I somehow found something which gave a deeper meaning for the reason for being there, at that place, at that time. As I walked out of the old city and walked across the tarmac to take a look at the new city, an ancient stone bridge caught my attention. A bridge which still connects the new city city with the old one. We often look for the missing link, maybe we should look at those links which still holds us together. A constant reminder of who we are and how far we have come.