Jordan Diaries: Chapter 1

Amman: The City With Eight Circles

A Decked Up Amman Downtown

Amman, the capital of The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, a city built over 19 hills and three wadis or ravines is a bustling hotspot of people, food, culture and friendship for life if you are lucky enough. Marked by 8 prominent roundabouts, colloquially known as circles are the markers for almost all major roadways that divides the city.

Winding Roads of Amman

The almost roller coaster like roads weaving through the city which is based on a mono-chromatic colour tone for all houses and buildings as per the king’s decree; in-sync with the naturally found sandstone hills in the surroundings.

As you wait inside your cab, your cab driver trying to break into a part Arabic, part English conversation with you, always smiling, addressing you as Sadiq (friend) and occasionally as Habibi (love), the time passes looking at the various people on the road, some looking at you with curiosity, some in amusement… you don’t feel out of place, don’t feel unwanted… you feel welcomed. Such is the culture of Amman, whether it is the more traditional East Amman or the more contemporary West Amman. This city is a mix of diaspora, with local Jordanian living peacefully with the Palestinians who moved long back from Palestine and nowadays you get to see other nationalities in the form of workforce from Bangladesh, Nepal, India and some other South Asian Countries as well.

There are many places to visit in Amman, some on foot and some in a car, all depending on the time you have in hand. Downtown also known locally as Wasat Al Balad is ideally the first place you should visit, especially if you are hungry. The downtown is actually in “DownTown” as I drove downhill from my accommodation i.e The Landmark Hotel, Amman. The downtown is speckled with loads of souvenir shops, garment shops and eateries. One will be spoilt with choices to try out.

From local garments, cosmetic goods made with dead sea salt and mud, various handicraft

materials, pottery, Sand Art in glass bottles, there is an endless list of things that you would want to buy and bring home to adorn your home. I realised how those who visit India might feel when they see the choice of souvenirs India offers.

Once Downtown has satiated your souvenir and food cravings, a trip to the Amman Citadel is a must. A historical site in the centre of the city, atop one of the seven hills that originally formed Amman, it is a good place to visit once the sun has set and the city lights up slowly into what

Amman: Shining Like Stars

looks like a galaxy of stars. A cup of local black tea infused with Maramaiiya (sage) is all you need as the evening breeze just takes your breath away.

Amongst many things that you can do in the city, a visit to the Rainbow Street is a MUST. Located near the first circle atop a hill called Jebel Amman, it’s a stretch of road filled with various eateries, serving modern burgers, chicken wings, hotdogs, artisan ice creams alongside typical local street food of Jordan. Visiting this place on an empty stomach is highly advised. As evening falls and the street lights up in various shades of incandescence, it’s a sight to behold. Rainbow street not only attracts tourists, but it predominantly attracts university students, who love to hang out amidst several café’s speckled on rainbow Street. If you venture into the branch streets and go a bit off track, you will find lots of small, unique café’s tucked away amidst the residential area parallel to Rainbow Street. One such place which I loved and have visited many a times is Books@Cafe. You can visit the book shop on the ground floor and go upstairs for a pint of beer with some nice snacks to order and sit overlooking the city for which you request to sit Barra (outside). Sip some chilled beer or Arabic Kahwa, snack on a wing or fries and endless chat with a friend makes it a perfect evening.

Amman is a city which needs to be enjoyed slowly, it requires time, patience and some curiosity… It’s like getting to know a person. You can’t rush into it. Go slow, savour it…

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